halo reach jorge helemt

So I've been commissioned me to make a Jorge helmet from halo reach.  Now I have done some research on the web especially looking at the 405th squadron that is dedicated to making halo armor.  All the credit goes to theses guys and if you are ever interested in making some halo armor check out their site.  they will walk you through the process and are a great bunch of people.  The process they use is called pepakura which is basically taking a 3d object modeling it in the computer to wire frame image and then what they call unfolding which makes you able to print it on paper and then with some cutting, folding, and gluing you get the 3d image.  then they fiberglass it and then bondo to smooth out the edges not to mention a lot of sanding and you can paint it and you have a very reasonably priced set of armor.  The thing is it takes a lot of time.  I am doing the most complicated piece of the armor the helmet. There are literally 1000's of tabs that need to be glued together.  Plus matching number to number to keep it aligned is insane.  It takes at least 1/2 hour to cut the pieces out of the card stock and then score and bend all the tabs  not to mention finding the numbers to align them and then glue them together.  If you have a lot of time on your hands this is the project for you.  It's definitely interesting and it's pretty cool to see your hard work start taking shape.  but damn is it tedious.

here are some pics of the helmet to be made and then some of the pepakura process.

Maka Albarn Soul Eater Scythe

So I was commissioned to make maka albarn Partner Soul in his scythe form.  Watch the series and you will understand.  here's a picture.

The Client asked to have the scythe come apart into 3 sections for easier transport.  No problem.  i started off with 1 inch PVC pipe and measured it to 5 feet and then I cut into 2 sections.  I went ahead and cut a 6 inch piece of 1 inch diameter wood dowel and glued it into one of the openings of the PVC pipe that I had just cut.  The best part apart the wood dowel is that it is just a slight hair bigger than the inside of the PVC pipe so a little sanding and you have a perfect fit.  So now the pole attaches to be 5 feet long. 

I then made the blade holder part.  The pipe screws onto this part so when you have the blade detached it makes for easier travel.  I went ahead and used a 3 inch diameter PVC pipe for this part and went ahead and routered out the slit for the blade to go through.  I tapered one end off that will attach to the pipe.  the other end i used 1/2 inch MDF board to cap it off and then routered the strip in the wood at the top.

The blade is made out of 1/4 MDF board and it is sanded drilled, primed,  taped off painted, taped off again, painted and then finally lacquered.  I taped off the blade holder and painted on the design at the base of it. 

Finally all put together

now in it's travel phase.

This was a fun little project though I did put a hell of a lot more paint on it then I thought I would.  Run off from the taping.  

Final Fantasy Lightning Shoulder Armor

So I was commissioned to make the shoulder armor for lightning from Final fantasy 13.  Here is a picture.

So I talked the person into having the two yellow strips light up.  Turns out that would be the biggest problem I had making this prop.  After receiving all the measurements I needed to make this I went ahead and started the basic shell out of cardboard.  I flattened it out and made sure it was bendable.  After doing the layout and the cutting I went ahead and glued it to it's approximate shape.

It's kind of hard to see but I went ahead and cut the two strip slots into the cardboard itself.  I was going to use some yellow stained clear hose back light by some yellow leds for the lighting.  That didn't work I couldn't get a uniform glow from it so i went ahead and diffused the light with some thin flexible Styrofoam packing and hoping that the yellow from the led's would spread out and the glow would like better.  Still no luck.  So I went ahead and thought maybe use white led's and that would hep.  nope no luck there as well. 
So I went ahead and got some el wire and that was that works like a charm.

Here is a pic of the underside of the armor.  I just wanted to show the goldfish sign from the cardboard.

next I had to make the little flap part that extends down the arm of the shoulder armor.  Here is a picture of the two pieces side by side.

Next step cover it in craft foam to hide the ridges.  I wrapped the edges under the armor since I will have to cover the inside once it's done.

next add the raised edges around the sides and then the raised part where the yellow strips go.

You can't see it but i did glue the seam on the top part of the shoulder armor it's just clear.  but I wasn't happy with how smooth it came out so i went ahead and threw some Spackle on it and three coats later and a lot of sanding and it looked good as can be.  I forgot to take a picture before I put a coat of primer on it.

 Next was the little design on the flap part of the armor.  i went ahead and googled lightning from final fantasy and got some good reference pictures and went ahead and drew it out.  I went ahead and drew it on a thing piece of card stock and then broke out Mr. xacto knife and this is what I got.

Next was a coat of primer on it and tomorrow after I get the correct color of paint i will have a finish paint on it. 

So next it's painting time.  I went ahead and spray painted the whole piece and then put a coat of a lighter color green on the raised parts.  After that I just added the el wire and fixed a battery holder to the inside of the shoulder pad.  



I think it came out pretty nice.  Fun little project even though my original idea of using leds to light it did not work.  Gotta love el wire.

Gurren Lagann Yoko Sniper Rifle

So I have always wanted to make this sniper rifle.  Something about making large impossible props is certainly cool.  For those of you that don't know about this gun and the person who wields it, here is a reference picture.

Pay attention to the gun people not the girl.  Now this prop has been made by countless people out there and there are some amazing props out on the web.  My goal was to make it close to a prop maker called Blind Squirrel Props as I could on a limited time frame.  SO I went ahead and made this gun out of PVC and MDF board with various screws dowels and a little craft foam for certain parts.  I didn't take too many in progress pics because I was recharging the battery in my camera and every time I was down in the dungeon making noise and sawdust I had left the camera upstairs.  but here are some pics I took last night. 

Don't mind the failed fusion sword project behind the barrel of the gun.  Nothing to look at people.

I have the scope pretty much done as well.  I have some coats of Gesso on it right now to help smooth out the slanted parts.  I have the clamps all made to lock it in to place and have the plans done for the bi pod which will open and close.  So that is my goal today finish it up and get it ready for painting.  Oh yeah i have to shape the muzzle for the gun as well.  Hopefully I'll have pictures of it primed tonight.  Also I have the side mount clips and the pink strap for it as well.

Oh yeah was also asked If I could make her bracelets as well.  So I looked around for some cheap bangles and didn't like anything I found so I went ahead and made them out of 1/2 MDF board I took 2 pieces for each bracelet and glued them together.  I then went ahead and sanded them and measured out where to put the outside 1/2 ball things.  I then went ahead and drilled a recess for each 1/2 ball to fit into and fashioned the balls out of sanded dowels.  Here are some pics of the painted bracelets and the 1/2 balls.  The are gluing in place right now and will have a finished project later today.

Finished Bracelet/Bangle

So the scope is made out of a 1 inch wood dowel and then 1 inch, 1 1/2 inch, and 2 inch PVC pipe.  I then used craft foam and then gesso to smooth out the edges.  I also cut the knobs out of  a 1 1/4 inch wood dowel and then bought some plastic spacers to hide the screw when I attached them to the scope.  The ends are covered with 1/.4 MDF board and sanded down.  The view finder and the distance finder will be attached to the front of the scope after I have painted it.  here it is with the 3rd coat of gesso on it.  I do believe this will be the last coat of gesso and the final sanding will be done once it's dry.  Then primer and finish painting.  woo-hoo!

Here is the gun  disassembled and with the 3rd coat of primer on it.  I have to say I have graduated to 440 grit sand paper between coats and you get a fantastically smooth finish with the pain on that.  This should be the last coat of primer and then it's the final coats of black, yellow and pink.  I made the side mount clips from .80 styrene and some 1/2 moon clips I had laying around.  I pre drilled the holes in the styrene so I could attach it to the PVC tube of the gun.  I used a heat gun to mold the styrene so it would work be flush with the gun.

So The bi pod attaches to the bottom of the barrel with a 1/4 inch diameter 3/4 inch Long nut and bolt.  So to have the barrel fit into the gun I had to build up the end of it which I did.  I purposely left the end unpainted so it would be easier to line it up with the main part of the gun for insertion.  It's a really snug fit

Ta-Da!  All done  I think it turned out pretty damn cool.  It comes apart in 2 pieces the scope will detach as well.  I hope the customer will be happy.

Yes the bi pod works as well.

steampunk wing designs

here are a couple steam punk wing design rough sketches I did for a potential customer.  I really hope I get to make one of these designs or something with a mix of all of them.  I have always wanted to make something steam punk but I haven't yet.

So these wings will be copper painted or copper coated and there will be a big Victorian clock in the middle of the backpack part with a bunch of different sized gears exposed on the top and the bottom of clock.  There will be brass pipes running out from the center of the wings and I'm sure I'll throw some rivets in there also there are a couple of gears on the outside of the wings as well.  A leather harness for the front with a simple button closure to secure it across the chest.

These wings will be made out of wood with a nice copper accent circle on the end of each wing.  Now I really like the design work in the game neo steam and heck I think if you can light it up it's better, so there are 2 tubes on the top and one on the bottom that will be frosted and a nice blue led in there to give it some cool glowing effect.  If I'm feeling really crazy I can have it so a couple of the leds have the fade in fade out effect. I think a steam gauge popping out of the bottom of it would be cool and of course the obligatory big copper pipe and a nice curly q copper tubing as well. A nice Victorian face clock on the outside and I want the bottom part of the back pack open so you can see the gears.  A simple leather harness with a belt buckle closure to keep it secure around the chest area should do it.

now these wings are gonna be a metal painted  with a nice copper accent round at the base of the wings leading to the back pack part.  I want to put some various gears in between each wing part to give it the steam punk look.  The body of the back pack  will be leather and I think a copper exhaust pipe up top a big copper tube running down one side a steam gauge in the lower part of the pack a curly Q copper pipe some gears mounted on the outside and of course a turn valve on the bottom  a simple leather harness with a clasp closure to keep it secure

these wings are gonna be wood but the lower half of each wing is gonna be copper plated  the nice stained wood and the copper should make it pop.  I wanna do a Victorian number like a clock on the end of each wing .  I'm thinking like an ivory colored circle and a black Victorian roman numeral.  now in between each wood part of the wing I'm thinking a nice heavy canvas material like for a sail.  the body of the back pack is gonna be a nice leather material a copper exhaust pip on the bottom a copper tube running from the bottom to the right side top a pressure knob valve and i would like to have another frosted tube that has a blue led in it on the top left side.  Then i would like the middle of the back pack to be open with various gears and pipes running through it.  A simple harness with a button clasp to keep it secure.

Cloud Strife's The First Tsurugi (Fusion Sword)

So I was commissioned to make Cloud Strife's Fusion Sword formally known as the The First Tsurugi.

 The Client Specified that he would like this done as accurately as possible but in the combined form only.  After some research I found out that the sword is 6 feet long and the blade is 10 inches wide.  I scoured the Internet for blueprints on this mammoth sword to make life a little easier but unfortunately did not find one. this is the closet thing I found.

So it was off to the drawing board.  To save a little time since this commission has to be in it's new home by September 3rd. I drew it directly onto the MDF board itself.  I went ahead and used 1/2 inch thick MDF board for the three main blade parts.  I am also using a 1/1/4 inch hardwood dowel for the handle.  So after drawing out the main blade I went ahead and cut it out and sanded down the top part of the sword near the hilt to give it the handle look that is hidden by the smaller side swords but can still be seen by looking down the top of the sword.  I then cut out the 2 side blades as well and did a little sanding to get them in the final shape.  Next I drew in the line that separates the main blade into it's 2 sections and penciled in the scallop pieces on the top blade.  Next I brought out my router and went ahead and but the main groove down the blade to differentiate the two blades.  Unfortunately that's when my router said you have put me through enough hell so I'm, not going to work anymore.  It was at this point that I gave it a rest for the night.  When my equipment craps the bed on me it's a good signal to quit while I am ahead. pictures of what I have done so far.

SO after tasking a trip down to home depot I have a new router and I went ahead and made the scallop marks on both sides of the sword.  I also did a rough sanding of the edge of the blade.  just to make it look more like a sword blade.  This thing is huge it is going to take a lot sanding to get this thing smooth.

Next I went ahead and drilled the holes for the screws that go into the side blades.  I went ahead and made the bottom of the holes a little wider so that the heads of the screws will be flush with the board so when I glue it to the main blade I will get a solid seal. Also again I did a rough sanding of the blade edge to get the look of a sword.  Thing about these small blades is that you only put the edge on one side.  That way when I glue it together it makes a seamless seam.

Now this sword is pretty frigging big.  The blade length is 4 feet and I made the handle 2 feet.  Now the number I found out there was that the buster sword which is close in size to this has a 17inch handle.  The fusion sword is a little bit bigger so I went with the 24 inch handle but the hilt is going to take up good 5 inches and the nut on the end of the handle is a good 1 inch as well as the wider round part near the hilt. so the usable handle length is going to around 19 inches give or take an inch.  I'm planning on the hilt part covering about 1 inch of the blade and the rest going down the handle.

More progress Pics

Hard to see but I made the handle piece for the small side sword I ended up trying a pass with the router and found that I would have to adjust the router table after each pass and it just wasn't looking right for me.  So I went ahead and broke out the mitre box and hand sawed each groove in and then took one of my wood files and filed the groove in a little smoother.

Close up picture of the handle you can see it a little better.

Found out that what i thought was a quarter circle was not a quarter circle more like a 90 degree curve.  So I went old school and broke out the graph paper.  after a little measuring and trial and error and I have it worked out pretty well. This would be my stencil to mark the MDF board.

Laying out the cut pieces on the small side swords to trace over it onto the sword itself.  I'm going off the prop picture and the 1/4 circle part is almost inlaid flush with the sword blade.  So it needs to be routered out.  yeah more sawdust.

Took a break from sawdust and made the nut for the end of the sword handle.  2 pieces of 1/2 inch MDF board and some glue more sanding to get it's shape right after the glue dries.

So this is the 1/4 circle piece and the other little decoration piece after I routered out the spaces and it fits pretty nice in the sword.  It stands out of the blade like an 1/8 of an inch.  So it should look pretty nice once it is painted.

yeah more progress.  you can';t really tell from these photos but I spent the weekend finish sanding the blade.  Now I'm sure I have a lot more touch up sanding to do once the first coat of primer on it but the edges are smooth and have a nice rounded edge to it.  This sword is turning into one of my favorite projects.  It's been a lot of fun (besides all the sanding that is)

So after finish sanding it's time to glue the small side blades on.  So I glued on side on and let it cure overnight. and this is how it looks.

Looking like a sword now. So While that was drying I went ahead and did the hilt/pommel/ hand guard thing.  Not sure which one it is technically called here so all of them will do.  Basically i took a 1/4 MDF board and measured out where the holes needed to be drilled for the nuts and bolts poking through.  So I did that and then took a 1/2 MDF board and marked off where the bolt heads were and drilled holes so that the 2 pieces of wood would be flush when I glued them together.  Here's the gluing process.

 And here's the gluing process for the other Small side sword.

Fun fun fun.  So out of curiosity I decided to piece it together except for the handle and some various other parts and this pic is what I like to call preview of what is to come.

A closer shot of the small side sword and hilt/pommel/guard thingy.

And now from the other end.

This project is coming together very nicely and I can't wait to see it completed in all it's glory.

Quick couple pics of what the hilt is going to look like it's still in it's rough stage right now.  i went a head and used a 3/14 inch steel pipe for the handle.  I was using a 1 inch hardwood dowel but I was getting a little too much flex in the handle when holding the sword upright.  with the steel unfortunately it added more weight but it also made it more rigid.  nobody likes a droopy sword.

Another one with my hand open to see the size of the handle compared to my open palm.

One quick last one for the heck of it.

So I did a test fit of this monster with everything on it and clamps holding the various pieces together that I hadn't glued on yet and good god it was heavy.  Way to heavy there was no way you could hold this thing one handed never mind having to lug it around for a convention.  So back to the drawing board.  The best thing about doing a project twice is that the second time it goes a lot smoother.  I went ahead and made it out of 1/4 mdf board this time and the difference is incredible.  I did go ahead and make the hilt as solid as possible since the sword is in 2 sections and the hilt is what holds it together.  I was also able to use a hardwood dowel for the handle this time and that saved on the wight as well and since it is so much lighter there was no flexing issues at all.  So I have a pic of it in completed form before painting.  Here are some pics.

So it is looking good.  everything is glued and final sanding and it's in the priming process right now.  Almost done with this awesome project.

So I got 4 coats of primer on this bad boy today.  I have switched from 32o grit sandpaper to 440 grit sandpaper between coats.  You would not believe the difference that makes.  you get a really nice paint job with it.  It really is amazing it takes a little longer and you might have to do another coat of primer but it is so worth it.

I also have Painted the black hilt part on the sword.  There are 3 coats of black on this bad boy.  I also used 440 grit between coats as well nice smooth finish on it.  I'm letting it dry for a couple hours before I tape up the black part and then paint the blade, handle, and nut.  The last part will be to tape up the nut and put a nice coat or several of Burgundy on the handle.  Then some more lacquer to seal it again and it will be done. 

sorry the picture is blurry.


So I realized I never showed any pictures of the final sword.  I've made 4 of these so far and the technique is still the same except that I invested in a drill press and now drill the holes for the bolts straight through the hand guard and the blade.  After that I just cut a threaded bolt to size and secure it with a washer and a nut on each end, with a little glue so it stays put.  Also I started wrapping the handle with red leather strips to help cushion it a little and to make it look a little more professionally made.  Here's some Pictures of the last finished sword I made.

So now the post is complete.  Hope you like it as much as I do.